THE RULES OF KHAKI.


1. COLOR: Chinos are also called khakis for a reason: color. Stick with tones from stone to tan. Faded khakis are best reserved for outdoor Sundays. Darker versions are refined enough for the office as long as they're crisply pressed.

2. LENGTH: Chinos that hit at the ankle work just as well as those that break slightly at the hem. However, too much of anything is never good. If your pants bunch around your ankles like crushed paper bags, see a tailor.

3. POCKETS: Most khakis come equipped with four pockets, two in the front and two in the back. There's nothing wrong with that, but to add some variation, try a pair with slant pockets, which are leaner, cleaner alternatives.

4. CUT: By now you know to avoid pleats. To up your game with khakis you'll need to focus on fit. Straight-leg varieties are the most conventional and comfortable, while slim-cut versions, with a slightly low rise, are the most modern. Both types should skim your hips, and the fly should sit naturally.

5. MATERIAL: If your pants contain nylon or rayon, or are marketed as wrinkle-free, they're not really khakis. Buy 100 percent cotton, and in the summer, stock up on the American original in washed twills and poplins.

6. CUFFS: When rolling up your khakis you'll want to strike a balance between a cuff that looks unstudied and one that looks neat. Make them about an inch wide, fold them over two or three times, then scrunch them until they appear slightly uneven.
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